Montana's Wild & Scenic Upper Missouri River

Posted on August 21, 2008

July 3, 2007

Monument at Fort Benton

After almost a full year of planning, our small group of friends was finally hitting the road to begin a five-day float of the White Cliffs section on Montana's Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River. We left Missoula and Seeley Lake with three canoes, three vehicles and a week's worth of food, drink and gear. After a brief stop in Fort Benton (a very cool little town loaded with river history) to discuss our final itinerary with Glen and Nancy Monihan of Upper Missouri River Outfitters, we were off for the launch site at Coal Banks Landing, approximately thirty miles to the northeast. We arrived at Coal Banks Landing late in the afternoon to find the campground empty except for a couple of parked vehicles.

While the guys took off to shuttle the 60 miles of dusty gravel roads to leave rigs at the take-out at Judith Landing, the gals set up camp for the evening. The shuttle crew returned to camp almost two hours later, and after a light meal we relaxed and watched the night sky become brilliant with stars before turning in for the evening.

July 4, 2007

Morning at Coal Banks Landing

Happy Fourth of July! Morning brought clear, sunny skies and after a leisurely breakfast, we broke camp, loaded the canoes and took off for our first day on the river. With the wind at our backs, we fashioned a sail from a sheet and tied the three canoes together. As we floated lazily down the river, we read aloud excerpts from Montana's Wild & Scenic Upper Missouri River guidebook and the BLM Upper Missouri Boater's Guide describing Lewis and Clark's journey, early home-steaders and the area's geologic history.

Relaxing at Eagle Creek Campground

After a full day of sightseeing along the river, we arrived at the Eagle Creek boat camp (Lewis and Clark camped here May 31, 1805) to find it completely vacant. Usually a very popular campsite, we surmised that since it was so danged hot, no one else was foolish enough to be floating in 100-plus degree temps. After setting up camp in a grove of large cottonwoods, the gals opted for a dip in the cool but shallow waters of Eagle Creek while the guys hiked further up to the rocks overlooking the confluence of Eagle Creek and the Missouri River. After dinner we sat and gazed at the moon rising over the White Cliffs across the river and were mesmerized as the evening light softly faded and the group turned in for the night.

July 5, 2007

Marveling at the rock formations

It was clear and calm the next morning as we floated past ancient reefs and the rock-capped pillars called "toadstools" which were the subject of much speculation when first viewed by Lewis and Clark. Early in the afternoon we began bucking a headwind, which did not let up until much later. We stopped at Hole-in-the-Wall boat camp seeking some much-needed shade and had lunch in one of the covered log shelters available for campers at the site.

Evening at Dark Butte

Following lunch, we entered into one of the most scenic stretches of the river which now featured spectacular towering pillars and unusual rock formations. We continued to paddle on against the relentless wind and finally made camp at Dark Butte boat camp late in the afternoon. Here was to be our only encounter with another party of floaters, but there was plenty of room to camp for both parties. A few of us still had enough energy left after dinner to take a short hike above camp and enjoy a beautiful, desert-like sunset falling on Steamboat Rock and Dark Butte as the last of daylight faded.

July 6, 2007

Canoe Sailing!

We launched and once again enjoyed easy paddling with a light tail-wind. We stopped at Lewis and Clark's campsite of May 30, 1805, and found the brass cap that authenticates the site. To think that over two centuries ago Lewis & Clark's Corp of Discovery encamped at this very spot on their way west to the Pacific Ocean was simply awe inspiring.

We chatted with two BLM river rangers while having lunch in the shade of the cottonwood trees at Slaughter River boat camp (Lewis & Clark camped here on both the westward and eastward legs of their journey), and discussed the presence of so many cows (and cow pies) in the primitive boat camps that we had stopped at so far. They acknowledged that it was a constant battle to keep the cows out of the primitive boat camps, as well as from destroying the young cottonwood saplings planted along the banks for future riparian habitat and shade along the river.

Before taking off on the next leg of our trip, we soaked in the river awhile to cool down from the (again) 100-degree-plus temps. Although wet, this was definitely not the cold and clear waters of western Montana that we are all used to. A bit cooled down, we continued in our canoes toward our next camp for the night.

Sunset at The Wall campground

We arrived at The Wall primitive boat camp about mid-afternoon to find it vacant, with the exception of several cows and a somewhat agitated bull. After chasing the livestock out of camp, we fixed dinner and watched as a storm began to build just over the horizon. The welcomed clouds arrived with a dry lightning show and very hot, dry winds which transformed to a moderate rain that cooled everything off during the night.

July 7, 2007

Happy Campers

Morning was gloriously cool and cloudy, and the winds were again favorable. After finishing our last breakfast on the river, we rigged up a mast from a dead branch and a tarp for a sail. We "barged up" the three canoes and set course for the take-out at Judith Landing. As we clipped along at about 5 mph, we had plenty of time to stop and savor the last of the river. As we approached Judith Landing, there was a sense of relief, yet another of not wanting it to end. Most of all there was a feeling of enrichment to have experienced a trip so steeped in history and awe-inspiring natural beauty.